The Descent of Shafer Canyon Road

It was 7 o’ clock on a warm summer evening when we reached Canyonlands National Park. After spending our day swimming in the Colorado River, we decided to have a quick drive around the park before sunset.

The highway took twenty something minutes before we reached the park entrance. Not saying that was a bad thing. Every minute of the drive hosted views that could warrant a painting or at least a picture. Dirt roads branched off the highway too, slithering off into the expanse and inviting us if only we had more time.

The paybooth was abandoned. It seemed everyone else had left too. The only other cars we saw the whole drive were those who passed us headed back to town. Here we were, alone, catching the last rays of an orange sunset.

Driving into the park, our view instantaneously opened on our left. It revealed deep valleys and canyons which rivaled what you would see at Dead Horse Point. To our right were far reaching fields dotted with red monoliths in the distance.

Not a minute after being in the park, there was a turnout called Shafer Canyon Road. Naturally I go the way with pretty rocks so I turned my car into it. Lining the dirt road were signs which warned us to go no further without 4 wheel drive and high clearance. My car is nothing to brag about, but I do have all wheel drive so I tried my luck.

Within moments the road began descending the side of the cliff face. While it’s very well maintained, the thought of going over the side felt like a real possibility. It doesn’t help when you get vertigo and sweaty palms what feels like every thirty seconds. Regardless, I trudge on.

The sun had now set, and not much light could enter the canyon. The red mesa’s have become tinged with pale blue hues, and I kick on my car’s brights just to be safe. In the whole mile or so that it took us to descend, there was only one turn off which really makes me wonder, how do people do this during the day? We had the pleasure of it all to ourselves but I couldn’t imagine traffic.

After traversing the switchbacks, we hit the valley floor. It’s in deep darkness now and we’re faced with a junction. There’s signs that led to camping, back up the way we came, and to Moab. That’s where we had a hotel so it was perfect. What we didn’t expect (naively) was how long it would take.

Following the dirt roads at night wasn’t the easiest thing to do. We’d stay on one for a while and then it would pass through a wash – except at night everything looks like a wash. Constant second-guessing plagued us as we moved at a snails pace.

This is where the 4 wheel drive was actually required as well. Driving down the switchbacks into the canyon was a relatively tame road. There was nothing you needed high clearance for, either. The valley was a different story. Here we encountered soft sand, very rocky areas, and a few spots that we had to gun it. Around 3/4’s of our way to Highway 142 the road became a steep incline with lots of loose rocks and a couple of high jutting ones. If you were driving something like a Jeep this wouldn’t be a problem. I was not. I started sliding and had to fight my way back up. This was as intense as the road got. If my stock Subaru could make it I’m sure your 4×4 could with no problem.

Looking at the map now, we also must’ve passed the beautiful Potash Ponds. From pictures these are a sight to behold, featuring neon water in a variety of colors. Unfortunately we didn’t have a chance to see them considering it was late at night.

Finally, we hit a paved road: Highway 279. This is what would take us back to Moab before we made one last pit stop. It was a huge grouping of pictographs high on a cliff face to our left. They were marked by a sign on the road and yet I can’t find mention of them anywhere online. They’re close to the Wall Street Climbing area, but for some reason they’re overlooked when it comes to pictograph recommendations. So here you have it. My recommendation. You have to go check them out!

Do I recommend this road? Yes. That is, if heights aren’t a problem to you and you’re comfortable with driving on narrow roads. The views are spectacular and the experience that goes along with them makes it unforgettable. Drive safe and enjoy!